Like clothing, shoes and red lipstick, applying eye makeup shouldn't
come with one-size-fits-all expectations. That's because beyond eye
color and skin tone, eye shape also plays a huge role in defining what
kind of shadow and liner look best on you. Whether you have almond,
round or hooded eyes, these are the tips and tricks you need to know in
order to get the prettiest peepers possible.
Almond Eyes
Most eyes are shaped like the ellipsoidal almond nut. To accentuate this
eye shape, the trick is to use darker shadows to contour the crease and
add depth. Begin by applying a soft shimmery beige, like Make Up For
Ever Eye Shadow in Metallic Light Beige 125, from the lash line to the
brow bone. Then sweep a matte chocolate brown, like Lancôme Color Design Eye Shadow in Fashion Label, into the crease using a windshield-wiper motion. Blend thoroughly and apply matte black liner (try Lancôme Artliner) that's slightly flicked out at the end to exaggerate your naturally extended shape.
Hooded Eyes
Hooded eyes have a monolid appearance, meaning they don't have a
discernible eye fold or crease. With this eye shape, we are again aiming
to create an illusion of depth. Makeup artist Nick Barose recommends
that those with hooded eyes opt for flattening matte shadow, as shimmer
may result in a puffy look. “With a medium shadow brush, apply a
deeper-toned matte shadow where the crease would be, making sure you
blend away any harsh lines,” he says. Try Urban Decay Eye Shadow in
Secret Service to create a soft, believable look. Finish by smudging
some of the same shadow along the lower lash line and topping it all off
with mascara to open up the eye and make it look larger.
Round Eyes
The round eye has a circular shape and is typically large in size. To
soften it and create a more exotic appearance, Barose recommends using a
liner. "Play down the roundness by only lining the upper lash lines and
extending the tails out to add length,” he says. Try: L’Oréal Extra-Intense Liquid Pencil Eyeliner in Black, which doesn't run or smudge.
Small Eyes
The trick to making petite eyes look larger is not to "make defined
lines because it will accentuate the eye’s small size," Barose says.
"Lines made on the eye should be slightly blurred.” Barose recommends
lining around the eyes with a kohl pencil, like YSL Dessin Du Regard Crayon Yeux Haute Tenue, focusing more on the outer corners. Then smudge it with a Q-tip for a softer effect.
Large Eyes
Use deeper matte shades to tone down a sizable stare, since sparkly ones
can catch light and open up the eye, says Barose. First draw a thick
line on the top lid with a black pencil, like Giorgio Armani Smooth Silk Eye Pencil in 4-black.
Then use a pencil-shaped brush to smudge it into the lash line and over
the lid. Use the same liner on the lower inner rims, connecting the top
and bottom line on the inner and outer corners to close up large eyes
even more.
Droopy Eyes
Whether the result of aging or genetics, there are ways to perk up
sagging eyelids with the proper placement of your makeup. Begin by
applying a light shade of shadow on the inner corner of the lids. Next
lift the eyes by sweeping a brown shadow in the creases (try Maybelline ExpertWear Eyeshadow Single in Nutmeg).
Then apply a sweep of black liquid liner on the upper lids while
"slightly lifting the line at the tails," Barose says. By applying a
light hue to the inner corners, deepening the creases and flicking up
the liner at the ends, you are instantly creating the illusion of more
lifted, more awake eyes.
Photo: Thinkstock
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